CULTURE

Dr. Carolyn Mair on Fashion's Age Problem

Dr. Carolyn Mair signing copies of the second edition of The Psychology of Fashion. The first edition sold over 10,000 copies and was translated into multiple languages. Image credit: Dr. Carolyn Mair
The fashion world has a blind spot, and it's getting harder to ignore. While runways flaunt youth and marketing campaigns chase Gen Z and Millennial dollars, an entire generation of style-conscious consumers remains largely invisible. Dr. Carolyn Mair, cognitive neuroscientist and fashion psychology pioneer, argues this needs to change.

In her newly updated book, The Psychology of Fashion, Mair challenges the industry's outdated assumptions about age and style. "Like younger consumers, [older adults] want to look good, express their identity and be part of the fashion zeitgeist," she explains. Yet brands continue treating the over-55 demographic as a monolithic group of fashion disengagers rather than the diverse, active consumers they actually are.

This disconnect isn't just bad business—it reflects deeper psychological biases around ageing that impact how older women see themselves. When marketing strategies fixate on youth, they create a feedback loop where mature consumers feel increasingly marginalised. 

What is fashion psychology, and why does it matter?
The psychology of fashion is a scientific discipline that studies human behaviour across the fashion industry. Established in 2012, it requires formal psychological training in cognitive, social and developmental psychology, personality and mental health. Importantly, it also requires skills in research methods, ethics and data analysis if it is to have positive impact for consumers, the industry and the planet. In contrast to the term ‘fashion psychology’ which is often used by those without formal training, this field prioritises psychology to understand behaviour beyond clothing.

Its evidence-based approach helps create a more ethical and sustainable fashion industry. I speak about this distinction and all the topics below in the second edition of The Psychology of Fashion which was published in December 2024.
How do our clothing choices reflect our identity, and how does this change with age?
Fashion reflects personality, cultural background, and mood. While younger individuals often experiment with trends, clothing choices later in life tend to prioritise comfort and self-expression over social validation. As we age, fashion becomes a tool for confidence rather than impression
management.

"The industry’s youth-centric imagery marginalises older women, making them feel invisible. While some brands have included older models, representation is often tokenistic. Genuine engagement requires more inclusive marketing and product strategies.
Brands can develop adaptive fashion lines that prioritise comfort, accessibility and versatile design that caters to diverse lifestyle needs rather than restricting styles based on chronological age. By focusing on functionality and contemporary aesthetics, brands can create fashion that resonates with all consumers, empowering them to dress in ways that reflect their individuality and lifestyle across the lifespan."

Dr. Carolyn Mair

How can fashion challenge outdated ideas about ageing?
Fashion can redefine ageing by promoting inclusivity and rejecting outdated stereotypes of age-appropriate dressing. Featuring older models and diverse styles in campaigns challenges the notion that ageing diminishes personal style.

Why do fashion brands overlook consumers over 55, and what needs to change?
Brands often treat the 55+ demographic as a homogenous group, failing to recognise their diverse styles and fashion engagement. A shift towards lifestyle-based marketing and ageless fashion strategies would better serve this demographic and challenge ageist industry norms.

Unfortunately, older consumers are often overlooked in fashion retail due to outdated stereotypes that assume they are disengaged from fashion or less interested in style. In reality, this demographic is often still active in the workforce, engaged in social activities and contributing significantly to their communities. Like younger consumers, they want to look good, express their identity and be part of the fashion zeitgeist. Brands should move beyond marketing in categories based on arbitrary decades and age groups, as these make little sense in the modern world. Brands would be more inclusive if they were to employ older people (as well as younger of course) in front of and behind the camera (e.g., store assistants, designers, creative directors, photographers and models), and acknowledge that style consciousness does not diminish with age.
Dr. Carolyn Mair at Nottingham Trent University in conversation with Dr.Mohammed Malik, discussing the role of psychology in fashion 
business and consumer behaviour. Image credit: Dr. Carolyn Mair
The Psychology of Fashion second edition by Dr. Carolyn Mair offers an up-to-date insightful introduction to the exciting and dynamic world of fashion in relation to human behaviour. It explores consumer motivations, how fashion influences our thoughts and feelings, and why we develop certain shopping behaviours. Published by Routledge
How does age representation in fashion impact women’s self-perception and purchasing behaviour?
The industry’s youth-centric imagery marginalises older women, making them feel invisible. While some brands have included older models, representation is often tokenistic. Genuine engagement requires more inclusive marketing and product strategies.

Brands can develop adaptive fashion lines that prioritise comfort, accessibility and versatile design that caters to diverse lifestyle needs rather than restricting styles based on chronological age. By focusing on functionality and contemporary aesthetics, brands can create fashion that resonates with all consumers, empowering them to dress in ways that reflect their individuality and lifestyle across the lifespan.
How does sustainability in fashion relate to ageing and longevity?
Sustainability and ageing align in their focus on quality, longevity and mindful consumption. Many older consumers tend to invest in durable clothing, supporting sustainable fashion principles.

What’s new in the second edition of The Psychology of Fashion?
The updated edition expands on sustainability, digital culture, AI, and VR, reflecting shifts in fashion psychology. It explores the psychology behind ethical consumption and the effects of social media on self-perception and fashion trends.
How do TikTok and Instagram influence fashion trends and consumer behaviour?
Social media accelerates trends and fosters compulsive consumption through algorithms and social validation. Psychological principles such as social proof, FOMO and dopamine-driven engagement influences consumer decisions, sometimes promoting overconsumption.
How does psychology inform business strategies in fashion?
Psychological insights help brands create inclusive campaigns, support mental well-being, and enhance consumer engagement. For example, a successful campaign using self-determination theory (SDT) engaged customers by allowing them to co-create fashion items, increasing brand loyalty.

Brands can leverage SDT through personalisation. For example, a campaign that allows consumers to customise designs or participate in brand storytelling can strengthen engagement, enhance well-being and could boost brand loyalty through more meaningful and psychologically rewarding shopping experiences
Dr. Carolyn Mair CPsychol. is a renowned fashion business consultant and academic with a PhD in Cognitive Neuroscience. Her pioneering work in applying psychology to fashion, initially at the University of the Arts London, earned her the British Psychological Society’s Distinguished Contributions to Psychology Education Award. As the author of the globally acclaimed The Psychology of Fashion, she is recognised as a leading expert in human behaviour within the fashion industry. Sought after by media and fashion businesses alike, she advises on leadership, sustainability, behaviour change, DE&I and consumer psychology, providing invaluable insights at the intersection of psychology, fashion business and consumer behaviour.

Find Dr. Carolyn Mair on LinkedIn @Professor Carolyn Mair PhD and Instagram @psychologyforfashion 
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